Articles – Tony White

In search of the Great White Shark, South Africa
Asian Diver Magazine

Sportdiver Magazine - December 2007

Tony White, March 2007

It was a beautiful clear blue day as we approached the ski boat, 4km off Cape Agulhas in South Africa. Two of the boat’s four occupants were spear fishing for Yellowtail. As Mark began to ask the skipper questions, one of the spear fisherman suddenly appeared to be walking on the water shouting “White, White! Get me out of the water now!”

Mark nonchalantly looked at us and said “Well, we have found them boys. Let’s go diving!!”

Carcharodon Carcharias, more commonly known as the Great White Shark, is found around the globe. But undoubtedly, the global capital for this magnificent apex predator is the Western Cape, South Africa.

Traditionally during the winter months of May to October, thousands of tourists flock to the local cage diving operators in both Gansbaai and False Bay. From the relative safety of a cage, the tourists watch these marine giants as they feed on one of their favourite dishes, the seals of Dyer and Seal Islands.

During the summer months, the numbers of sharks around these two areas drops significantly. Although the Great White is a migratory animal, up until now, nobody has really known where they disappeared too. When asked, people in the know became very vague and said “They have gone hunting fish somewhere nearer the coast” or they joke that “It is tourist hunting season”.

It wasn’t just tourists who flocked to these two areas but also cameramen and photographers from around the world. Not deterred by the bad visibility or weather conditions they waited patiently for their time to come. Many had long waits as the conditions were rarely right and they went away empty handed. Over the years, the professionals found other areas of the world to photograph the Great White for the endless articles and programs that are produced about this fascinating creature.

Almost a year ago, in an effort to attract the reducing number of cameramen back to South Africa, a couple of visionary people decided that somewhere around their beautiful coast there must be better and more predictable conditions to dive with Great Whites

After completing a trip with a group of photographers to Aliwal Shoals and Sodwana Bay in February 2007, I received an early morning call from Mark Addison of Blue Wilderness Diving. Excitedly he told me he had just had a phone call from one of his contacts in the Western Cape. The Agulhas current had taken up its summer position, moving closer to the coast, bringing with it warm and more importantly, clear blue water with 20 to 30 metres visibility. They had also noticed high concentrations of sharks, particularly the Great White and if I was up for it, we should get down there pronto!

And so it was at 4 o’clock the next morning, with the wagon loaded with cameras, dive gear and a bait stem, that we (Mark, me and videographer Pete Whielden) started the 1600 kilometre drive from Durban to Arniston in the Western Cape.

The journey was long and hot, with Mark and me taking turns to drive and stopping only three times to eat and top up on gas. En-route it became obvious that we would not be able to launch the RIB from Arniston as the launch conditions were too dangerous and we re-directed to a small fishing village. Struis Bay is some 10 kilometres away from Cape Agulhas, the southern most tip of Africa.

We arrived exhausted at 10 o’clock that evening and we still had to prepare all the equipment and load the boat, as time was of the essence. Weather conditions were perfect but predictions only gave us two working days before the weather was predicted to break, with a strong south westerly stopping us dead in our tracks.

The next morning we were up at the break of day. Adrenaline was pumping and the weariness of the previous day was forgotten as we anticipated the day and the strong possibility of getting into the water with this awesome marine animal.

We launched the RIB easily from the slip way in the small harbour and headed out into the clear blue sea. Our re-direction from Arniston now meant that we had a 40 kilometre sea journey before us. Our local contacts were sending us to a shallow reef called Skip-Skop, some 4 kilometres from the coast.

The long sea journey gave us time to observe the beautiful rugged coastline and plenty of time to reflect on what was to come. It took us 1½ hours to make the journey with a following swell. Happily we didn’t know what we were in for on our return journey!

As we approached the marks in the distance we could see a small ski boat. Mark decided that we would talk to the people on the boat to see what they had seen and take it from there. On approaching the boat we could see two men fishing with lines and another two neoprene-clad spear fishermen in the water. We had just started to talk to them when one of the men nearly took off vertically from the water, weight belt and all, shouting “White! White! Get me out of the water!” This prompted Mark Addison’s now famous comment “Well, we have found them boys. Let’s go diving!”

By now all I could see was two men almost walking on the surface of the water trying to get out of it and into their boat… and we were starting to kit up to get into the water!. My mind told me that this was not the way it should be. I had figured on sitting around in the sun while Mark baited the water and after a couple of hours to get used to the idea, I thought we would gently join the sharks as they lazily swam around us.

Not so! Kitted within minutes, Pete and I slid into the sea to find visibility of at least 25 metres. Nervously we edged towards where the last reported position of the White Shark had been. Cages? .Oh, I forgot to mention that there were no cages involved in this!

Suddenly out of the blue, approx 2 metres below the surface appeared a 4 metre Great White Shark. We have dived with Tiger Sharks many times in the past so we were used to being in the water with big sharks without cages, but this shark was enormous! I definitely thought that it was eyeing us up with a view to assessing our meal potential. Happily, Pete and I are pretty crunchy and to be fair, human beings in any form are not on any sharks’ normal menu.

I have been asked many times since that moment if I was afraid and very honestly, I have to say that for a brief time, yes, I was. My fear turned to apprehension and soon I was completely at ease with the creature that was nervously circling us. It continued to circle us for some two hours, never coming any closer than 4-5 metres from us.

All this time Mark took up position above us on snorkel and with an empty spear gun. If the shark approached us too closely he planned to dive down and push it off, but this was never necessary.

Eventually, the spear fishermen who had exited the water so dramatically came back into the water with us, and without their spear guns. One of them was heard to say that with these lunatics in the water, it reduced his chances of being eaten.

The ease with which we had found the White Shark and the whole encounter, was the ultimate experience in my underwater career. For two hours we enjoyed this majestic creature’s company until we finally we ran out of air and had to return to the RIB. We then realised the enormity of the task ahead as without the following sea, it took us nearly two and a half hours to pound our way, teeth rattling, back to base at Struis Bay.

It had taken Mark Addison over a year of never ending searching, up and down the coast to experience this day. In the past it had been either been bad weather, poor visibility or no sharks. Today all his hard work and the relentless pursuit of his dream had come together.

The following day we launched again at dawn. We made our way to the same reef, with the intention of dropping a bait stem to the seabed to see if we could attract the shark to the bottom, and capture rare images of White Shark against the reef instead of the predictable ‘White Shark biting cage bars’ shot.

We anchored in the middle of Skip Skop with a depth varying from 12 to 16 metres and dropped the bait stem over the side. The wait seemed endless but after an hour or so Mark yelled “White approaching!” We could see the dark shape of a huge shark some 100 metres from the boat. After falling over each other to get kitted, we dropped into the water. Pete was in front and heading for the bottom, followed by the shark and last of all, me. As we got in, Mark had said that today’s shark was not as big as yesterday’s!! Following that shark, I could swear it was twice the size of yesterday’s and a female to boot.
Pete and I took up position back to back (obviously), by the bait stem and waited. This time the shark only came back once and buzzed us from some 10 metres away. That was the last we saw of her before our computers told us it was time to leave the bottom. Again our return to base was exhilarating as we tried not to lose our teeth, and talked about our experiences of the last two days.

True to predictions, the weather broke the following day and we were unable to go out again. So we reluctantly packed up our kit and made our way home. These two days had proved that it is possible to dive safely with Great White Sharks, without cages in warm (24C) clear water in South Africa.

This was a real privilege for me and I can’t wait for next season to arrive. I know that when it arrives and the conditions are right, I will not be waiting at home for a phone call. I will already be in Struis Bay, diving with Great White Sharks.

During the summer months, when the Agulhas current moves closer to shore, large numbers of White Sharks can be found feeding on the huge shoals of Yellowtail that frequent this part of the coast. We have a very real opportunity and the expertise for underwater photographers/videographers to come to South Africa to capture footage of the Great White Shark without the restraints and limitations of the cages in Gansbaai and False Bay.

Tony White is a full time professional underwater photographer now based in Cape Town, South Africa. He frequently runs specialised tours in South Africa and across the world. More information can be found at www.seaofdreams.co.uk

ARTICLE SPORT DIVER UK
Diving in the past had been carried out on day boats with the associated limitations on their range. Jim Thistleton the mainstay of Kangaroo Island Diving Safaris and famous for his knowledge of the rare and exotic Leafy Sea Dragon had recently addressed this by acquiring a purpose built auxiliary sailing catamaran named aptly Wind Cheetah. An extremely sturdy vessel built to withstand the rigours of the southern ocean, she measured 15 metres by 7.5 metres with twin 7.5 metre diesels. Her mainsail area measures 1400 sq feet and spinnaker 1700 sq feet giving her a range of 1,000 miles at a service speed of 8 knots. Add air-conditioning, a large lounge and a dive deck that would easily accommodate twice the six divers she takes out on trips and you have a very efficient, comfortable boat from which to explore this area.

So it was on a early February morning that myself and my wife Pam were greeted by Jim and his wife Josie in the man made harbour that Jim had dug out at the base of the majestic 500 foot cliffs that make up this rugged coastline. We immediately set sail and started to kit up for the first dive of the day. It was to be at Western River Cove about four miles down the coast and held happy memories for me, as this was the spot I had seen my first Leafy Sea dragon some three years previously. Again Jim had identified three adult males, two of which were still carrying eggs. At a personal level this is what I had come for. As we entered the water memories came flooding back.

The green tinged clear water was cool at approx 18C. Dropping to the seabed at 15 metres, we were slowly making our way over the pure white sandy bottom towards the rocky shoreline covered in the lush kelp and sea grass that is a trademark of this area, with the vis at about 20 metres, when suddenly up from the bottom shot a small vividly coloured male ornate cowfish. Immediately taking up station alongside Jim’s mask, he darted around both of us obviously determined to stay with us. After a comical couple of minutes, we decided to resume our journey towards the rocks. Furiously he took up station below me. Twice my finning took me away from him and I had to stop to allow him to catch up. This bizarre but welcome behaviour finished as we arrived at our destination and he disappeared in the forest of kelp that surrounded us. We can only surmise that he had been cornered by some predator on the sand and we had become his protective escort back to safer surroundings. Yet again a reminder of the close connection with the ocean that we all experience at some points during our diving careers.

Immediately Jim pointed to a small enclosed outcrop of rock and serenely floating within was Sickle a heavily egg ladened male Leafy Sea dragon. I have witnessed this creature on many occasions but their exotic beauty never fails to stop me in my tracks to wonder how nature has woven its wand to create such a wondrous creature. The rest of this first dive was spent photographing him whilst he lazily finned up the reef wall displaying the eggs that he would carry for up to 46 days before hatching. This was interspersed by Jim dragging me off to a flat kelp amphitheatre where he showed me the biggest southern stingray I have ever seen. His wingspan measured in the region of 3 metres. He lazily arose from his resting space and keeping eye contact turned towards and then away from me allowing me a full view of his spine covered tail which matched its wingspan and must have been a full 3 to 4 metres in length. It was with these images we returned to Wind Cheetah fulfilled with wonder at the pristine conditions and exotic creatures this long ignored dive destination has to offer.

That afternoon a further five miles down the coast at the aptly named Arch the home of a colony of New Zealand Fur Seals we spent an hour interacting with these friendly and very curious mammals. Here the cliffs rise to their full 500 feet. At one point a 100 metre piece of the rock has become separated over the years creating a natural arch that leads you into a moon pool at the end. The seals spend hours rolling their bodies along the surface of the water. So hanging out at five metres divers are often literally faced with a pair of eyes and whiskers pressed firmly up against their masks. Jim often told me tales of the extremely friendly Australian Sea Lion that occasionally visited this colony for three days at a time. They had named him Boof. Two years previously he had appeared with a huge gash out of his side, probably the result of an unfriendly encounter with a shark. He had laid on the rocks in the fierce sun for two weeks. Fearing he would die, Jim had pulled the boat up alongside him every day and thrown water over him, amid weak barking from Boof, to stop his skin drying out. Eventually they were rewarded and he slowly made a full recovery. Now during his travels he returns here to remember the kindness that Jim had shown him.

The next three days were spent sailing down this beautiful coastline lazily enjoying the Australian summer sun, interspersed with some of the most spectacular diving I had encountered. At the Amphitheatre, in about 20 metres of water, with the subdued sun streaming into it, reminding me what an ancient Roman theatre must have looked like, sat the gladiator of all Southern Stingrays. The one I had seen three days earlier was merely a baby compared to this. Nearer to four metres in wingspan he must have had a body weight in excess of 1,000 lbs. Again giving us a display of the latent power he possessed in his body, just swinging gently around and over our heads within no more than three feet, he completely blotted out the sun for seconds.
Then on to Snug Rock, a pinnacle rising out of the ocean. Dropping into the depths beneath the waves was a kaleidoscope of colourful corals adorning the walls. Colourful nudibranches were common wending their unhurried way between the corals. Huge shoals of red snapper and old wives hung out in open water and green grouper and blue devil fish could be seen in every nook and cranny. Not since Mozambique, had I ever seen such a concentration of fish life in one place.

At Castle Rock we encountered the more common of the sea dragons the colourful Weedy Sea dragons. Two large males again adorned with eggs lazily picking their way amongst the kelp on the bottom. Their colour only becomes apparent when you shine a torch on them and you have to be very careful because as soon as you do this their camouflage disappears and all the fish around start to harass these very timid creatures. On this dive, in its later stages, I had been accompanied by an Eastern Blue Grouper. Now my full attention was on him and slowly he came closer and closer. Eventually I raised my left arm into a semi circle and he swam into it and stayed there obviously enjoying the contact as much as me.

After all this unique interaction you may say that Kangaroo Island had given me its best on this return journey, but late in the week on the morning of the 8th of February at the end of this live aboard adventure it had one last encounter in store which would for me stand out over all the other experiences of the trip, providing me with some unique images never before obtained in the wild. I had entered the water in a small bay some twenty miles away from our start point. The weather was perfect and visibility was in excess of 15 metres. Jim had put me onto another heavily egg ladened Male Leafy Sea dragon and I was happily photographing him with my wide angle set-up. About twenty minutes into the dive, Jim returned and gave a signal that indicated to me that he had found a juvenile, which is not unexpected at this time of the year. So it was with great anticipation that I followed Jim up the wall. What I then encountered sent life at that moment spinning into slow motion. One of the eggs on a male Leafy Sea dragon had split and emerging from it was a new born Leafy. For the next five minutes I obtained shots of this baby’s birth. Still attached to his chest was the egg yolk that would sustain him for the first few days of his life. After approximately five minutes he detached from his parent and was immediately at the mercy of the sea. For the next forty minutes we accompanied him on this short journey at the beginning of his life. Almost immediately he appeared to be in control of his direction heading for the protection of the kelp bed. All his markings on his appendages where in place and if he survived they would help identify him later in life as all the markings are different and unique to one individual. It was with great reluctance and a distinct lack of air that we left him to his uncertain future. It is estimated that from 1,000 live births only one leafy Sea dragon will survive to maturity. To this day I hope that his luck has held out and that at some point in the future we will meet again. In the meantime I have the comfort of the images I carry around in my head not only of this unique experience but the full six days I spent with Jim Thistleton in his special part of the world.

Tony White is a full time underwater photographer and runs tours to Kangaroo Island each year-end of January/early February. June and July will be spent with Jim Thistleton exploring Chuuk and Pohnpie States in Micronesia on 12 day live aboard cruises.

Fact File
Flights to Adelaide Via Singapore three times weekly Singapore Airlines
Flights from Adelaide to Kingscote take half an hour and are daily
Currency is Australian dollar approx $2.60 to UK pound
Water temp 12C to 22C in March
Best time to go October to April best time to see Sea lions March
Voltage 240 AC

ARTICLE ROGEST VANCOUVER

The Leafy Seadragon is probably one of the most bizarre creatures to inhabit our oceans. But to see this beautiful creature in its natural environment raises images long gone of fairy-tale dragons that exist only in children’s books and our imaginations.

Leafy Sea Dragons have only been recorded living from Geraldton in Western Australia along the southern Australian coastline to Wilson’s Promontory in Victoria. Little research has been carried out, therefore little is known about current populations. But increasingly concern for this delicate animal has increased due to habitat destruction caused mainly by pollution run-off from the mainland and the increasing trade by unscrupulous collectors. Prized by aquarists world-wide a male Leafy Seadragon carrying eggs can realise up to $4,000 US dollars. There are many documented instances of marine animals becoming extinct in the wild, it is in all our interests as human beings that this should not happen to one of the most beautiful inhabitants of our Southern ocean.

Leafy Sea Dragon
The Leafy Sea Dragon is an endangered species - in 1991 the WA Fisheries in Western Australia declared it a totally protected species and it became the unofficial conservation symbol of Southern Australian Waters.

Anyone who has marvelled at this delicate and colourful creature cannot fail to see the strong connection between the Leafy Sea Dragon and those mythical fairy-tale dragons we read about as children.

Sea Dragons actually belong to the same family as Sea Horses (Sygnathidae), but differ in appearance by possessing leaf-like appendages on their heads and bodies, and have a tail that cannot be used as an anchor, seadragons can be identified by the unique markings on their snouts which are individual to each specimen.

At first glance these amazing creatures resemble swaying seaweed, which can make them difficult to find in their natural habitats, usually inshore areas of sea-grass where their colouration depending on the habitat can vary from Burgundy (living in deep waters) to a golden colour usually found in kelp beds. Under increasing threat from pollution and excessive fertiliser run-off, this is not the only danger faced by the Sea Dragon.

Although not having any known marine predators, it has become the target of unscrupulous collectors. It is poorly equipped to flee from those wishing to capture it.
The outer skin of the Sea Dragon is made up of solid plates, severely limiting its mobility, and the only way that the creature can propel itself is by rapidly oscillating its ventral and dorsal fins.
However, it blends easily with its environment and is agile enough to hunt down tiny mysid shrimps or sea-lice, its main diet.

Perhaps the most extraordinary thing about the Leafy Sea Dragon is that it is the male species that gives birth. During mating the female lays eggs onto a special area on the underside of the male's tail where they are attached and fertilised. How this is accomplished is still unknown as it has never been witnessed in the wild, it is thought that the act of transfer happens during the cover of darkness.

This brood patch, consisting of cups of blood-rich tissue, each holding one egg, is specially developed by the male for use during the August-March breeding season.
During each season male Leafy Sea Dragons will hatch two batches of eggs and, after a period of 46 to 50 days from conception, the male gives birth to miniature juvenile Sea Dragons no more than 20mm in length. These immediately become independent and receive no further help from their parent.

For two to three days after birth the baby Sea Dragons are sustained by their yoke sac. After this they hunt small zooplankton, until large enough to hunt juvenile mysids. A baby Sea Dragon will eventually reach maturity attaining a length of approximately 35 centimetres and after two years their own reproduction cycle will begin. It is thought that of every 2.000 eggs hatched only one will eventually survive to reproduce the next generation, most falling prey to predatory fish for example leatherjackets or blue throat wrasse. Seadragons have been seen to survive up to seven years in the wild.

The Leafy Sea Dragon is one of two species of Sea Dragon to be found in Southern Australian waters. The common, or weedy sea-dragon (Phyllopteryx taeniolatus) is less rare and can be encountered more frequently in the same areas.

So as divers there are several ways in which we can contribute to the survival of the Leafy Seadragon. Dragon search is a website driven monitoring program supported by many of the marine agencies in Australia with the aim of building a data base to determine the distribution, habitat requirements and research and management priorities for this little known species. As divers when we encounter a leafy seadragon we can visit this website and record our sightings to be added to the database in our own way becoming pioneering scientists. We should be constantly vigilant to stop the unscrupulous collectors from benefiting from the sale of these creatures. Never handle or raise them up in the water column as this can lead to stress and the death of the leafy seadragon due to a ruptured swim bladder. Please show your concern in the fight to establish an environment where the leafy seadragon cannot only survive but the population can be allowed to flourish and increase.

As all gods creatures it should be allowed to live its life unhindered by human intervention.
For more information about Leafy Seadragons and what is being done to protect them please visit Dragon Search at www.dragonsearch.asn.au/ supported by more than 20 marine agencies around the country

Sportdiver Feature

Yucatan PeninsulaTony White visited the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico where he discovered some memorable dive sites at Chinchorro Banks.Leaving behind the cold dank weather of a late British autumn, after a few hectic last-minute travel arrangements that were hurriedly finalised by e-mail, - I flew from Heathrow Airport destined for a new diving resort, Maya-Ha in the Mexican jungle, that has previously been little known to European divers.

The nine-hour flight with Virgin Atlantic went to Miami where I then changed to Mexicana Airways for a 90-minute flight to the tourist resort of Cancun. Arriving there I was met by Arturo, one of the dive guides from Maya-Ha, and we set off on a four and a half-hour mini-bus ride to my ultimate destination. During the long journey Arturo regaled me with the history of the region that I was to visit and he certainly helped pass the time in an entertaining way.

Some ten years ago an American called Wes Boughton, known locallyas the first 'gringo' to dive Chinchorro Banks, and who had been part of a small dive operation in Xcalak, near to the Belize border, had explored the under-water region. Since then he has mapped out many other dive sites in the locality and, some three years ago, when land became available, Wes began to construct the resort of Maya-Ha. |His vision was of an eco-friendly hotel geared towards transporting small groups of divers to this pristine reef.

Around the resort are the remains of still-undiscovered Mayan ruins dating back more than one thousand years, and secret lakes with blue holes. There is also the 1.3 million acre Sian Ka'an Bioshere Reserve (the name is Mayan for "where the sky is born") which is actually located just north of the resort. The reserve boasts 336 species of birds, including many exotic species such as toucans, great currasow, parrots, flamingos, roseate spoonbills, and one of the largest birds in the world, the jabiro stork.

Magically Arturo had led me into an entirely different world on the journey - now came the acid test. Would Maya-Ha live and Chinchorro Banks live up to expectations?. Arriving in the dark my first impression was of a group of Mayan buildings, bathed in moonlight and seemingly arising from the jungle. I was quickly shown to my room which, in typical American style, was very comfortable. It was with a lot of gratitude, after such a long flight, that I fell into a deep and restful sleep.

Some seven hours later I awoke refreshed to have my first view of the resort in the daylight. Down on the beach the only sight, apart from miles and miles of seemingly endless white sands, and the green of the jungle meeting the sea, was our dive boat, a pro-42 called Wahoo II, fully kitted up with tanks for the day's diving.

Over breakfast I met Don Higbie, the owner of the boat who was also in charge of the dive operation. Don briefed me on Chinchorro Banks which are situated some 150 miles south of Cozumel and 25 miles north of the Belize frontier. Chinchirro mirrors the shape and size of its northern neighbour. This atoll, some thirty miles long and nine miles wide, the surface of which varies in depth from ten to 25 feet, is bordered on the Caribbean side by breathtaking walls descending some 1000 feet.

On the Mexican side there are sloping reefs and all around the edge of the atoll lie numerous ship-wrecks of all ages, some lying in waters as shallow as ten feet in depth. They are surrounded by ancient cannons, scattered on the sea-bed.

Rumours abound that there are Spanish galleons to be found here which date back to the Conquistadors. What is more certain is the age of the 17th century Dutch vessel that we were about to dive.

Along with five American diving colleagues, I made the 90-minute crossing to the nearest point of Chinchirro. The journey was very smooth as this huge atoll protects the inner waters between the mainland and the reef. It was with great anticipation that we arrived at our first dive site of the day, 2 Steps, which is so-called because the dive is conducted at two levels. Dropping to the lower level of 30 metres, what became apparent very quickly were the huge Barrel and Elephant Ear Sponges that adorned the coral wall at this depth.

Contrasting with the 40-metre-plus visibility was a pure white sandy sea bottom, the reflection of which, even at 30 metres, gave the impression of daylight conditions outside of the water. As we started to explore we came across a very healthy looking population of very-much-alive Conch shells. This was rather a surprise because in most parts of the Caribbean you are more likely to see them lying on a dinner plate than crawling around in their natural habitat!

Equally the fish population was just as healthy and, during this first dive, we encountered pairs of Queen Angel fish (Holacanthus Ciliaris) and Grey Angel fish (Pomacanthus Arcuatus). At the end of the first step, climbing up from 30 metres to the second step (around 12 metres), was a sleeping Nurse Shark (Ginglymostoma Cirratum) which certainly took him by surprise in this isolated and mainly undived area. It rapidly brought him back into the world of reality and he disappeared within seconds.

At this level we became more and more aware of the amount and size of the varying species of sponges, as well as the great abundance of black coral (my previous experience in the Caribbean was that you only found black coral more than 30 metres below the surface). All of this was in pristine condition. In and around these sponges and coral outcrops we also came across Queen Trigger fish (Balistes Vetula) and Spotted Moray eels (Gymnothorax Moringa). It was with some awe that we exited this dive site, and I also felt an element of surprise as previous experience had told me that these kind of pristine and well-populated reefs were fast becoming extinct in the Caribbean.

The second dive-site of the day proved to be a complete contrast. In ten metres of water lay the remains of the previously mentioned Dutch vessel and, when we started to descend, the visibility and light penetration proved to be quite stunning. From just below the surface, the dive site's name became very apparent -scattered over an area of about a hundred square metres were 40 ancient coral-encrusted cannons (I didn't personally count them all but that was the official brief).
This site is not on any official map and had been discovered three years previous when Arturo had been diving in the vicinity. While following a turtle he had been met by the sight now being investigated by us. The sea- bed was a series of coral crevices, each one filled with some reminder of this ship's premature demise nearly three centuries ago. The artefacts included handmade nails, small pieces of pottery, and even small amounts of lead shot, and their examination by us proved to be one of the highlights of the dive.

Prior to this dive we had been reminded that, since 1998, the area had been declared a Mexican national marine reserve and that the removal of either marine life or artefacts is illegal. It was indeed very heartening to see that all my diving companions respected this and nothing was touched or disturbed.

Our third and final dive of the day was to Punta Gonzalez. Again this site was another contrast to the previous two dives. Carried out at one depth it was like an under-water maze of coral heads, with each one holding its own secrets and surprises. Looking in the branches of a Gorgonian coral I came across the form of a perfectly still Slenderfile fish (Monacanthus Tuckeri) who, happily camouflaged, posed for the camera for a good five minutes.

Also hidden in crevices, under the many coral outcrops, protruded the slender-nosed Arrow crabs (Huenia Heraldica) and huge shoals of Long Spine Squirrel fish (Holocentrus Rufus) were in evidence all over the site. Oblivious to this, and happy just watching the marine world go by, from underneath a coral overhang, was a half-metre long Red Hind (Epinephelus Guttatus).
This first day's diving had made the long arduous journey more than worthwhile and the two remaining days were no less spectacular or diverse. They provided sightings of turtles, Bottle Nose dolphins, and other exotic species that have long been rare in the more popular dive sites of the Caribbean.

Back on land the hotel has devised an ingenious way of tailoring a visit to this region to the traveller's specific needs. After purchasing a typical package for five days, guests are issued with five activity vouchers each of which can be redeemed for a day of diving or a day of tours. The tours include Lake Bacalar, a multi-hued body of fresh water that mimics the intense blues seen in the Caribbean along a spectrum ranging from brilliant turquoise to deep indigo. Kayak trips enable the visitor to view the previously described bird life and the recently discovered Mayan ruin on a central island.

In Bacalar Town there is a blue hole fresh water cenote which can be dived and descends to over 300 feet. Again, it provides an experience not to be missed by the intrepid diver.

There are also many trips to the various Mayan ruins in the area, too numerous to mention here. However, of particular interest is a new site that is currently being excavated called Chaccho Ben.
It is worth mentioning at this point that the resort is not completely finished. The swimming pool was incomplete at the time of my visit although 16 of the villas had been built, with plans to ultimately expand this figure to 28. Wes Boughton's aim of creating an eco-friendly resort, which would allow people to visit this so-far unexplored region, was already well-established and operating when he decided to hand over the reins to a new owner, John Trigger, the editor/owner of the Diving Organisation Undercurrent.

Trigger is also committed to Boughtons's vision and plans are in progress to complete everything by early 2000. This will be helped by the opening of a new airport at Mahahual, situated only six miles from the resort. By the time you read this there should be three charter flights a week from Cancun which will cut out the arduous four hour drive and make the resort much more accessible.
In my opinion the long and tiring journey to get there was offset by the unique prime dive attractions and the most obvious difference in the reefs here are that they are more healthy and vibrant than other reefs elsewhere in the Caribbean. This translates into great biodiversity, both up and down the chain, whether in terms of small and rare creatures, or a greater number of fish species overall. The local sponge life is also quite outstanding.

Fact File
The best time to visit is between August and October. Water temperatures vary from 25 degrees centigrade to 29 degrees and visibility varies from 20 metres to 40 metres-plus.
The trip offers the flexibility of spending further time in Cozumal or Cancun. My visit was specifically tailored for me by Crusader Travel of Twickenham who are now offering similar packages to this unique destination. For further information,
contact Chris Evans on 01208 744 0474

ARTICLE SPORTDIVER UK
Tony White recently returned to South Africa to dive with the Tiger Sharks. As he got his first glimpse of this magnificent creature, that old and famous phrase came to mind as he said to the Boat Captain,
"Kevin, I think we are going to need a bigger boat"!

I am starting to believe that I have an invisible rubber band attached to my body somewhere, and someone in South Africa keeps pulling me in. But then, this beautifully rugged country with its equally rugged and genuine people has a huge wealth of marine animals, which is only now being recognised by the outside world.

For three years now I have been returning here to witness what must be the biggest movement of animals this planet will ever see "the Sardine Run". Before the Sardine Run this year, I decided to go to Umkomaas, a small town near to Durban on the east coast which services Aliwal Shoals - one of South Africa’s top dive destinations. This is where Mark Addison of Blue Wilderness Dive Expeditions has been successfully drawing in Tiger Sharks since 1999.
Primarily a research project, which started out as simple photo I.D., it has now grown, in conjunction with the work of a number of scientists from nearby Durban University, into a tagging project which aims to track the movements of several sharks whilst they are resident at Aliwal during the summer months; and also to see where they go during the winter months to better understand the threats posed to this unique group of Ladies (and a few Gents).

As I stood nervously on the beach that first morning in June waiting for my boat captain of three years, Kevin, to prepare for launching I looked around me at other operators preparing to do the same thing. Everything looked so normal. Didn’t they know that I was about to launch myself into the sea with the second most feared shark in the world (after the Great White)? Were they not concerned at all about my safety? (I guess not).

As we launched through the surf safely, and started to make our way out to the area where we would encounter these magnificent creatures, it gave me time to reflect on what is known about this marauder of the Oceans.

Galeocerdo Cuvier to give it its official name, is found worldwide in temperate and tropical waters, preferring to live in coastal, turbid conditions on or near to the continental shelf. It is often found in river estuaries, coral atolls and small lagoons. One of the bigger sharks, the average size is in the range of 400cm to 650cm and weighing in at up to an impressive 2,200 lbs. The Tiger Shark derives its name from the dark stripes across its back, which fade as the shark gets older.
In some areas, this shark has been labelled the dustbin of the sea due to its wide variety of prey. Encompassing fish, other sharks, birds, turtles and even rubbish (one shark’s stomach was found to contain two car number plates).

Female Tiger Sharks will carry her young for 9 months and give live birth to as few as 10 or as many as 80 pups in each brood. The young sharks measure from 50cm to 75cm and will hunt straight after being born. From this point, the young sharks are on their own, with no further parental interest.

Too soon (for me anyway!!), we arrived in the area which was known to be frequented by these creatures. Anchoring up, Steve, our safety diver for the day explained that two factors were important for a successful dive. The current needed to be running strongly to carry the chum stream so that the sharks could pick up the scent and follow it to the bait stem. It was. Secondly, the visibility needed to be 8 metres plus. Again, it was. I was now slowly running out of excuses not to get in to the water. If the vis was any less, the sharks would be to nervous to come in close to investigate us (I was having a hard time equating the fact that something that was at least three times the size of me would be nervous). Anyway, Steve now proceeds to get the bait stem ready. It is simply a plastic drum stuffed full of sardines with a chain hanging down to which other tasty morsels were attached - tuna, dorado, etc. This was then floated away from the boat and we all sat back and tried to relax whilst Steve steadily poured the diluted chum over the side.

Typically the sharks will not come and play before 11.00am each day, and it takes up to an hour to attract them in. This day was very typical. On the dot of 12.15, the first shark appeared passing under the boat. The stripes on her back very distinct and the radio tag clearly visible on the side of her dorsal fin identifying her as "Casey" (named after Steve’s pet dog) she was a four metre pre-caudal female Tiger. This is where the famous phase came out, "Kevin, I think we are going to need a bigger boat". I wasn’t joking. She was equally the size of the RIB we were in, and there I was thinking of jumping in the water with her in a few minutes (time to exit but no where to go). At this point, the bait stem was released from the boat to float with the current and Steve kitted up with snorkel and fins to enter the water. Seemingly, with not a care in the world, he would stay with the stem until he felt the sharks were comfortable and then allow us to enter the water. This point arrived too quickly for me and it was time to get in or bottle out. Grasping my camera like it was a huge metal wall that was going to protect me, I dropped down to approx. 5 metres and turned towards the bait, where I saw Casey gracefully swimming around Steve. Also in the background were two smaller males (approx. 3 metres) who had joined the party.

At this point something very strange happened to me. I suddenly became very calm and started to enjoy the experience. They were truly the most beautiful and graceful creatures I had ever seen under the water. For the first 40 minutes the sharks circled us warily at a distance. After this, now with six sharks in attendance and in a distinct pecking order (the big females first), they approached the bait stem and attempted to take the small morsels on offer. Some seemed more interested in the chain that supported the bait, entwining their bodies around it, which gives some credence to the theory of the electrical fields that chains give off being picked up by the shark’s receptors. We had been warned to keep our eyes peeled as the sharks became bolder. For the next forty minutes we were privileged as the sharks came closer and closer to us one shark actually bumped into the front of my camera’s dome port as though enjoying his reflection in it.

Tiger Sharks have a fearsome reputation for attacks on human beings but, at no point did we feel threatened by these magnificent creatures which left us exhausted as the adrenaline rush faded away. Upon exiting the water we were all in awe at the unique spectacle we had just witnessed. Over the next eight days, we were to spend another three days enjoying this very special and unique experience (the other four days we were blown out by bad weather and low vis). Together with the Sardine Run, this has been the highlight of my photographic career and will keep me returning to Africa for many years to come.

Fact file
Mark Addison’s Blue Wilderness Dive Expeditions are the only operation offering this unique experience. Further information can be obtained from www.bluewilderness.co.za
Time to - Go October to June
Currency – South African Rand
Electricity – 240V
Getting There – South African Airways fly daily to Johannesburg then from here connecting to Durban.

ARTICLE MOZAMBIQUE
Tony White recently travelled to Mozambique on the south-east coast of Africa. Twenty years ago tourism dried up with the outbreak of civil war in the former Portuguese colony and for many years it was an almost forgotten outpost. Now, with good economic growth, and politically one of the most stable countries in Africa, the tourist doors are well and truly open again.
I left Heathrow Airport on a dark, dismal, rain-swept November morning. The 11-hour flight to Johannesburg in South Africa was uneventful but very comfortable, and gave me plenty of time to read about an area of the world that few really know about in Europe. For many people, the devastating floods in early 2000 that swept the country, and which were seen on television news bulletins worldwide, had been their first real awareness of Mozambique.

Mozambique gained its independence from Portugal in 1977, by which time it was the fourth most industrialised country in Africa. However, following 15 years of civil war, which finally ended in 1993, the United Nations declared Mozambique the poorest nation in the world. In the nine years since those dark days Mozambique has become one of the economic success stories of Africa.

In the 1960s Mozambique was regarded as the holiday playground of South Africa and, thanks to some stunning countryside and national parks, it is now well into a programme which will see the controlled return of this tourist trade.

On arrival in Johannesburg, the adventure began. My onward flight to Inhambane in central Mozambique was via Eagle Flight, which turned out to be a two-engine Cessna aircraft! In the company of eight other passengers we spent two hours in an environment that was sometimes reminiscent of travelling on a roller coaster, flying across the flat plains to the coast.
Our first sight of the Indian Ocean can only be described as stunning. Held together by the Casuarinas trees, some of the biggest sand dunes in the world, rising to over 100 metres in height, lined the Mozambique coastline. From horizon to horizon the stunning white sandy beaches were completely deserted while the powerful rollers poured in from the Indian Ocean. It was an unforgettable sight that held everybody enthralled as the plane prepared to descend and land.

The airport, described as international, would have had difficulty accommodating an aircraft much bigger than the one we arrived in! However the airport formalities were quickly dealt with, and I was then met by Denise Kelly and Craig Jackson, the owners of Pisces Diving Centre. They were to be my hosts for the next six days.

The town of Inhambane, which is the provincial capital, certainly displayed its Portuguese roots, with wide streets and colonial architecture. It had an air of history as we passed through. Our journey to Jangamo Beach, some 25 kilometres from the town, could only be accessed by a four-by-four off-road vehicle as much of the road is on sand tracks.

By-passing acres and acres of coconut trees lining fresh water lakes, with their populations of exotic birds in full view, the one and a half hour journey to the resort left me in no doubt that despite its recent troubles this was still a very special country. The resort, when we finally arrived, was very much in the local tradition, with thatched buildings dotted around the huge sand dune. They all offered magnificent views across the Indian Ocean. I was to stay in the main lodge and my room was comfortable and clean although sparsely furnished.

The sun in this part of the world rises extremely early so it was at 5am that we were hauling the 5.5 metre Stingray semi-rigid inflatable, powered by two 50hp engines, down to the beach to be hand-launched into the surf. Our first dive site of the day was to Manta Reef which was about a 25-minute ride from our launch point.

At 5.30am Denise and myself dropped down into the clear blue water for my first site which until now had been an unknown quantity. We levelled off at the bottom in approximately 18 metres of water, and visibility was approximately 15 metres as we made our way across the reef. This was riddled with gullies and hollows, blood red soft corals appearing amidst the nooks and crannies. Whip corals lazily pointed to the sun-dappled surface.

Up until this point this could have been any one of a dozen dive sites that I had entered over the last couple of years, that is until we hit the point which dropped away into the deep blue ocean. The sight that met me was of a series of pinnacles with such a diversity of fish in huge numbers that I have never experienced before. Huge shoals of red and silver Bigeye hung by the side of the pinnacles and thousands of multi-coloured Goatfish looking like a carpet led off into the blue ocean.

Two-metre Potato Bass, each weighing over 90 kilograms, eyed us curiously as we made our way over to the first pinnacle. My first sight of a Spanish Dancer (Hexabranchus Sanguineus), rarely seen during daylight hours, was another surprise, and all around us was the noise similar to the purring of a cat. It was at this point, about 20 minutes into the dive, that two of the biggest Manta Rays (Manta Birostris) glided into view and approached within ten feet of our position.
I have seen Manta Rays in other parts of the world, including the Maldives and Indonesia, but these have always been the smaller juveniles. These particular Manta Rays were certainly the granddaddies of them all. Their wing span measured between five and six metres, putting them in the weight range of around 2,500 pounds.

These graceful creatures stayed with us for the rest of the dive and on six consecutive dives at this site we saw between two and eight of their colleagues. On two occasions a juvenile who had lost his tail followed us to our safety stop and circled below us until we exited the water.
This introduction to diving in this area showed that the results of the lack of human presence for the last two decades had resulted in one of the most healthy fish populations that I have ever come across. It surely must be a lesson to us all.

The adventure continued throughout the day and, in transit between our second and third dive sites, a shadow passed beneath our boat. After stopping and returning the way that we had travelled we came across a six-metre Whale Shark which I later discovered are seen frequently throughout the year, but more often from November through to February. Once again I had the privilege, albeit only briefly, to snorkel with this magnificent creature.

Without a doubt during the six days that I spent diving in this area there was more diversity of marine life concentrated in one particular area than I have previously seen during my years of travelling the world's dive sites. In Anglers Alley there were two-metre wide Bull Rays and on the gentler side I witnessed mating Nudibranches (Nemerotha Purpreolineolata). There were also huge shoals of Glass Fish, frequently being hunted by some of the biggest Lionfish that I have ever seen.
The reefs were festooned with Honeycomb Moray Eels, Green Turtles, and the more unusual Crocodile Fish. Also frequently seen in these areas (although we looked, we never found them however) are Black and White Tip Sharks, Leopard Sharks and, again unusually the more fearsome Zambezi and Tiger Sharks.

The reefs were not festooned with soft coral like the northern Red Sea but their beauty lay in the creatures that inhabited them in their thousands. Wherever we went we were usually in sight of huge shoals of Chevron and Great Barracuda, Big Eye and Tuna, to name just a few. In my view this was truly an adventure that I had not anticipated but would not have missed for the world. Running in tandem with this spectacular sea life was the warmth I received from all of the local community, even when I was sat in a bar one evening in the midst of around fifty six-foot tall and wide resident South Africans and the news came through that England had beaten South Africa in the Rugby International.

In the cold light of day this is not the luxury that a lot of people would expect from a modern day dive holiday. This is a rugged country emerging from years of conflict and devastation but what it lacks in modern day comforts is more than made up for with genuine people, adventure and truly some of the most spectacular dive sites that exist in the world.

Although Whale Sharks and Manta rays can be see all year round, during the summer months between November and February they can be seen more frequently. In the autumn months between March and May the Humpback Whales start to arrive and their population is at its height between July and August. In September and October we see the annual sardine sprint along the East Coast of Africa which draws in a myriad of sharks, whale sharks and dolphins to feed on them.

Sea temperatures range from 20 degrees centigrade in July and August to 29 degrees centigrade in January and February. Visibility.ranges from eight metres to 30 metres, and averages 15 metres.

Pisces Dive Centre is one of only three PADI resorts in Mozambique. The two owners (Denise is English and Craig is South African) have gained a huge amount of experience teaching in the Red Sea, and run a very tight and efficient dive operation.

Other things to do in the area include four-by-four safaris, bird watching, local museums and the main town, which has a colourful market. Arab Dhows ply the local waters and can be hired for day trips along the coast.

At present Mozambique's game reserves are in a state of reconstruction and are being re-stocked. However there are opportunities with bordering countries including South Africa and Zimbabwe to visit the Kruger National Park and Victoria Falls. Malaria can be a problem and you should consult your doctor before travelling there.

For further details contact Chris Evans at Crusader Travel of Twickenham on 020 8744 0474. Alternatively look at www.teledata.mz/divemozambique.1716

ARTICLE ASIAN DIVER
Asian Diver feature Alor and beyond
Known as the Islands of the Gods, the Lesser Sundas Islands of Indonesia are like a step back in time. To a distant world long forgotten. Lazy days with spectacular diving.

The Lesser Sundas Islands of Indonesia anchor a 1,000-mile southeast corner of the Indonesian archipelago, which stretches from the more well known islands of Bali and Lombok in the west to Alor in the east, our final destination on this trip. As we travel further east civilisation as we know it slowly fades away to be replaced by a more tranquil way of life enjoyed by these people for many centuries with little change. The South-Eastern Islands as the provincial name Nusa Tenggara literally translates, is mainly populated by subsistence farmers in scattered villages on the many islands.

Geographically situated in the pacific ring of fire you are never far from the sight of an active smoking volcano. The people who inhabit these islands are no less fascinating. Predominately of Muslim origin, there the similarity ends with many races intermingling over the years as Malay, Melanesians and Australasian to name but a few have been washed up on these shores. One of the most interesting stories is one of thousands of huge bronze kettle drums unearthed on the island of Alor which originated some 2,000 years ago in North Vietnam’s Dong-son culture (archaeologists to this day are unable to offer an explanation as to how they arrived here).
The next morning after steaming all through the night, we anchored in a small bay off the island of Padar. The bustle of the local village had started early with the crowing of chickens and the smoke rising lazily into the early dawn. After a light breakfast our dive day was to start at 0700 (this boat offers the American system of diving with up to five dives a day). The briefing was short but very detailed so everyone entering the two tenders knew exactly what to expect.

It was with a certain amount of excitement that I entered the clear blue water. Descending to the reef top was an approaching kaleidoscope of unbroken colour, the coral and fish population was in abundance and clearly in pristine condition with no sign of the bomb and cyanide fishing that is sometime still prevalent in these areas. As we descended over the wall down to 25 metres we were met with the sight of huge barrel sponges and gorgonian corals of every colour of the rainbow. Our guides were quick to point out the life living here. Pygmy seahorses and nudibranches were to be seen making their slow way over the corals. Schools of fusiliers, big eye and sweet lips passed us by as we moved along the wall. After what seemed an eon we made our way back up the wall to the flat sandy bottom just in front of the village, where one of the guides excitedly pointed out a gem of the underwater world, a beautiful vivid red Rhinopias ( a member of the scorpion fish family) which was no bigger than three inches. So rare is this beautiful creature that I have only witnessed it once before. On this sandy flat we were also treated to the toxic fire urchin with equally rare resident Coleman’s shrimps.

So it was that we exited the water from this first dive, knowing that the long journey we had all undertaken to get here was worth it for the sights we had just witnessed on our first dive and we looked forward to the next eleven days with much enthusiasm. As I have stated previously Sea Safari III is one big boat. A traditionally built boat of wood these vessels have been used in this area for centuries, going back to the days of the infamous Bugis Pirates who plundered the trade routes of the historical and lucrative Spice Islands. Today she has all the trappings of a luxurious live aboard dive boat carrying a maximum of 16 passengers in en-suite air conditioned cabins. Each diver has their own dive station, there is a spacious lounge equipped with state of the art video editing equipment and a library. For photographers, there are charging stations, work areas in abundance, with individual areas for everyone and even daily E6 processing. Top this off with some of the best food I have ever eaten on any boat and you have the ingredients to make any trip a successful one.

Our moves were frequent but short. Next we moved onto the uninhabited Island of Paabang. Here diving on the point, we were met with spectacular gulleys and caverns to be explored each giving up its secret inhabitants, giant groupers, wide eyed puffer fish probably never having set eyes on human beings before, huge schools of jacks and tuna hanging in the current waiting for the next meal to arrive. Later on that day we were mesmerised as literally hundreds of dolphins arrived in the straits which separated Paabang from neighbouring islands. From the boats we were able to observe Bottlenose, Common and Spinner dolphins in their separate groups passing us by, some playing others clearly with more on their minds hunting the prolific amounts of fish that abound here.

On the next island Pura again just anchored off the local village we witnessed spear fishing as it has been done for many centuries (at this point I should point out that this is done by the locals purely to provide food for their families, not as a sport to end up decorating someone’s wall as a trophy). The men dive to incredible depths with home made spears and only goggles fashioned from the local wood with plastic lenses glued in. These men where keen to show us their skill, of which they had plenty.

Here again we were transported to an underwater world free from the destruction that we see on many of our more popular dive destinations, inhabited with the weird and wonderful, many of these exotic creatures still to be described and bearing no name. In the evening we were escorted to a secret sight where we witnessed the beautiful Mandarin fish going through its ritual-mating dance culminating in the act that would ensure the survival of this marvellous example of nature.

At a number of the small inhabited islands we were to visit, walking tours of the villages were organised. At Pura the church on the hill signified that the residents were of Christian origin, at the island of Ternate, the mosque at the heart of the village showed the people to be of Muslim extraction. The one thing they all had in common was an innocent simplicity that originates from living in these serene surroundings and a friendship that knows no barriers. We witnessed them going about their daily lives. The women weaving baskets out of palm fronds and weaving and dyeing the local sarongs known as Ikat (one sarong can take up to a month to complete). These visits were a welcome break from the daily round of diving. It was a fascinating window into how the locals carry out their daily lives.

On day six we dived at the entrance to the enclosed natural harbour of the main island of Alor a dive site called Tri-Top. Known for its population of rare nudibranches we were not to be disappointed. Through the surface we could see the trees their branches hanging inches from the surface of the clear blue water on the rocky and gravel bottom. We were privelaged to see Chromodoris reticulata, Rayed platydoris and numerous members of the Nembrotha family. That evening as we hung in ten metres of water on the wall that bordered the island exactly at 1845 we were surrounded by thousands of tiny lights as the local population of flashlight fish (Anomalops katoptron) exited the cavern that they inhabit during the day. The rest of our days were no less spectacular giving regular sightings of rare and exotic creatures.

Fact File
Water Temperature 26C to 30C 3mm or 5mm wet suits will be sufficient
Electricity 240 volts AC
Currency Indonesian Rupiah
Best time to visit – Kararu does a number of cruises to the area from Febuary to April each year

ARTICLE SPORT DIVER UK
Tony White recently made a journey back in time to a lost world of dragons and spectacular scenery both above and below the water. A true and unexplored wilderness in our modern world. Here are his experiences in the Komodo National Park, Indonesia.

As I disembarked from the comfort of my Singapore Airways jet after a 15 hour journey from London, I was immediately aware that this destination was different from any others I had visited in Indonesia. Denpasar Airport in Bali reflects the history and culture of the Balinese people, the architecture is both impressive and exotic interspersed with large statues of long forgotten gods and warriors. It was here that I knew that this was no ordinary adventure.

After clearing the usual formalities , I was met by Anthony Rubins Rhodes one of 3 owners of the sailing vessel Kararu of ‘Kararu Dive Voyages’ which was to be my home for the next 7 days. Tony hails from London but has long since deserted the UK shores for this beautiful part of the world. Now settled in Bali with his wife and two children, he and his partners have achieved an impressive record of efficiency and service.

Arriving at the boat alongside in Benoa Harbour my first impressions was of the sheer size of this vessel. A traditionally built wooden schooner, she is 42 metres in length by 9 metres across the beam. With a crew of 18 she was by far the biggest liveaboard I had ever seen.
After a guided tour of the boat and settling into my spacious cabin it was time to depart. Our initial journey time was approximately 18 hours and was to take us to our first dive site on the edge of the Komodo National Park. During this transit we were to pass many of these beautiful rugged islands – Lombok came and passed like a jewel on our eastern horizon. During the night the red haze of active volcanoes could be seen in the distance. Boat traffic slowly disappeared until we were left alone on these tranquil waters, slowly changing my anticipation into the reality of entering a forgotten world few people from the western world know exists.

The Komodo National Park lies approximately 250 nautical miles east of Bali between the islands of Sumbawa to the west and Flores to the east. The northern shores are in the Flores Sea (effectively the Pacific Ocean) and the southern shores are in the Indian Ocean. The three main/largest islands are Komodo, Rinca and Padar. The Komodo National Park is situated on the corner of two regions of Indonesia, the West Nusa tengara region, where Bali and Lombok are situated and the East Nusa Tengara region where Flores and Alor are situated. It was designated a world heritage site by the UN in 1991. It has been a national park since 1985.

The next morning at 7.30, anchored off Sumbawa Island we were called for our first dive brief. The information given was both detailed and concise and was to become a feature of the efficiency of the dive crew during the week. Nobody entered the water without knowing what to expect both in diving conditions and local fish life.

Descending to the sandy floor of our first dive site there was time to take in the scenery, vis was at approximately 12 metres ( low vis is due to the amount of nutrients in the water brought in from deep upwellings from the open ocean). I was surrounded by coral Bommies arising from the sandy bottom each of which was to divulge its unique inhabitants during the next 60 minutes. Warty Frogfish, vivid yellow Spearing Mantis Shrimps gazed at us from their sandy home while Juvenile Emperor Angelfish darted around us. A new species to me was a hairy Arrowcrab peering at me from a small crevice in the mass of coral that surrounded us showing all the colours of the rainbow. On surfacing, the immediate reaction was one of pristine conditions inhabited by a diverse population of creatures long departed from many of the more popular dive destinations around the world. Then I was informed that this was only the check dive site and we would see the good sites later. How right he was.

Later that day we moved on to Satonda Island and a dive site called Sandbox. It was here that the pace was lifted a rung. Ornate Ghost Pipefish, Pygmy Seahorse and Inimicus Devilfish to name but a few of the species parading before our eyes. After this incredible dive we were again informed of the wonders that were awaiting us in the days to come.

Day two saw us anchored off Banta Island for another spectacular day of diving. It is worth mentioning that new species of aquatic life are still constantly being identified, many of them from this part of the world. Here we saw rare Dentronotacea Nudibranches, Marbled Crocodile Snake Eels, many Crionoids and green, yellow and brilliant red Ghost Pipefish which I had never witnessed before,. It was like a procession of rare and exotic creatures.

Our time on the boat so far was one of luxury coupled with deadly efficiency. Every aspect had been carefully planned and honed to perfection. All cabins had twin or double beds with en-suite facilities and air conditioning to reduce the intense heat of these regions. The main stateroom catered for all meals, which were varied and well presented. It also housed TV, video and DVD facilities with a library of both current films and books from the underwater world. Camera work stations and charging points were in abundance and spacious catering for both 112 and 220 volts. The dive deck had 20 stations, each with its own locker facility for stowing gear. Couple this with the constant attention of the crew to your every needs makes the whole trip much more enjoyable.

Day three dawned with the Kararu anchored off Komodo Island. Today’s itinerary started with a walk through the world heritage site of Komodo Island, accompanied by two of the park rangers. Our 4km walk took us through dense woodland to see Deer, Wild Pig and exotic orchids hanging from the trees. But the obvious highlight of this trip was the sightings of four Komodo Dragons. This the largest of the world’s lizards can attain a length of 2 and a half metres and only exist on three islands in this region. The population now stands at less than 3,000. It was truly a magnificent moment for all to witness this impressive beast from close quarters. From here we spent the day diving in the locality. Padar Island and W. Reef provided some spectacular pinnacles rising from 25m to 12 m from the surface. Due to cold upwellings the water temperature dropped to 23 degrees but with it brought the nutrients that fed some of the most impressive soft corals that I have seen certainly equalling the best the Red Sea has to offer. The Pinnacles were awash with every colour conceivable. Add to this the creatures, amazing Sea Apples constantly collecting plankton and feeding themselves with their many arms, tiny Anthipods no bigger than a grain of rice which only exist here, Spanish Dancers with their accompanying Imperial Shrimps and to top it all a bizarre Red Octopus with green spots who cannot change colour and the trip was certainly getting into top gear.

Day four had us anchored off Rinca Island adjacent to Komodo. As we ate breakfast we could watch Komodo Dragons and monkeys searching for any meals that had washed up on the shore. Today’s diving was to be the jewel in the week’s crown. The Yella Wall ‘O’ Texas was aptly named for its huge amount of soft coral trees - Pygmy Sea Horses and Allied Cowries were the feature creatures. Cannibal Rock so named because a Komodo Dragon had been seen devouring one of its own kind provided us once again with a feast of soft coral, Here we witnessed rare Zebra Crabs, on their host, Fire Urchin, Frogfish and the rare Hairy Ghost Pipefish were in evidence. On completion of this five dive day everyone had gone into sensory overload. There were many seasoned divers on the boat, but we agreed that this had been one of the most awesome day’s diving for one and all.

From here over the next two days we were to start our slow return journey to Bali stopping at various island dive sites on the way, each day bringing new experiences for all on board. Sanceang - Pantai Bontok, saw beautiful Sea Hares and Hairy Frogfish all beneath the glowing vent of an active volcano. Medang Island – The Alley, a submerged huge rock with magnificent drop offs and visability of 40 metres plus. Huge schools of glassfish hanging against the wall provided opportunities for specacular photography, and so it was that too quickly this trip was coming to an end.

As we entered harbour early the following morning, we all made the transition back into the real world of fast food, cars and our own hectic lifestyles. But in our minds we all carried the sights and sounds of the last 7 days. Beautiful barren landscapes above water and colourful reefs and walls below each with its bizarre creatures, truly a land time has forgotten and long may it remain so.

Fact file
Flights are daily from many UK airports via Singapore to Bali
Currency is Indonesian Rupiah approx 14,000 to the UK pound
Voltage 240V AC
Water Temp 23C – 30C
Best time to go – Febuary to December

ARTICLE SPORTDIVER UK
THE KOWLOON BRIDGE BY TONY WHITE
Overlooking the mighty Atlantic Ocean, from this place you look on an expanse of water stretching over 3,000 miles to the next landfall in North America. Baltimore is situated in some of the most beautiful countryside that West Cork and indeed Southern Ireland has to offer. It is from here that we will look at another awesome wreck this coastline has taken. The biggest diveable wreck in Europe, the Kowloon Bridge.Baltimore West Cork

Nestling on the southern most part of Ireland Baltimore lies 8 miles south of the main market town of Skibbereen. With a maritime history stretching back over 500 years, its strength lies in its fine natural harbour. Protected on all points of the compass it has provided shelter from the onslaught of the Atlantic to many a fine vessel over the centuries. Today it has a resident population of around 300 which blossoms to nearer a thousand during the summer months. Tourism has much to offer in this part of the world with fine country walks, to every conceivable water sport you can imagine. Fishing villages litter the coves and inlets with the houses a riot of colour and the friendly locals offering a famous Irish welcome, Each evening people from all points of the globe come together to exchange their daily adventures over a pint of the equally famous black stuff. This and the tranquillity are what constantly draws me back here, if on top of that you have some of the most spectacular wreck diving in Europe it all has the ingredients of a stunning alround holiday location.

The Kowloon Bridge
One of six combination carriers built at the Swan Hunter Shipyards on the Tees in the North East of England, she was commissioned in 1969 and launched on the 25th September 1972. At 169,080 deadweight tonnes her dimensions were awesome. Length was 294 metres, maximum beam 44 metres and depth 25 metres. To put it into perspective she was longer than 3 rugby pitches end to end. Classified as an OBO she was capable of carrying either ore, bulk dry cargo, or oil. Modifications were made to the odd numbered holds which allowing her to carry iron ore in these holds. The even numbered holds remained empty and it was to this end exclusively that she was to spend her working life. Initially named the English Bridge she was to change her name two more times before bearing her current name changing to the Mercurio and the Crystal Transporter.

Much controversy and mystery surrounds not only the Kowloon Bridge but also her sister ships. In 1980 the Derbyshire sank in a typhoon in the Pacific with the loss of all 44 of the crew. Another, the East Bridge was abandoned in a storm and later sold for scrap. Three others are still at sea, all of which are known to have suffered from serious problems since their construction. Controversy surrounds possible substandard steel being used in the area of bulkhead 65 where under duress cracking had occurred not only on the Kowloon Bridge but was the cause of the East Bridge being abandoned in heavy weather. Mysteriously the amended structural plans for the ships have also disappeared. Possibly the crux of all of this is the method of construction used to build these ships. This consisted of assembling very large prefabricated units of the hull which was a very difficult task. The practical problems of perfectly aligning these huge sections was enormous. It is known that at least some of the sister ships were built using filler pieces where the sections of the hull did not fit together which could have caused eventual weaknesses in the integrity of the ships especially around bulkhead 65 and hold nine.

The Loss of the Kowloon Bridge
The Kowloon Bridge was en-route from Seven Island in Canada, to Hunterston, Scotland carrying 160,000 tonnes of iron ore pellets owned by British Steel.

On Tuesday the 18th November 1986, after sustaining damage crossing the Atlantic due to very heavy weather, Captain Rao in charge of the Kowloon Bridge stated there was a crack between the number 9 hatch and the pump room and was heading for the shelter of Bantry Bay to effect repairs.

She anchored in Bantry Bay at 0540 on the 19th and a team of surveyors boarded her to assess the damage. Repairs to the affected areas were started, however on the morning of Saturday the 22nd the main anchor snapped in a rapid change of wind. The fact that the Capo Emma, a disabled oil tanker carrying 80,000 tonnes of crude oil, was at anchor less than a mile away gave Captain Rao no option but to take the Kowloon Bridge back out to sea to ride out the storm or risk a disasterous collision between these two vessels. Within twelve hours of leaving Bantry Bay the ship was in serious difficulties struggling with 50 foot swells and 70 mph winds. At 2302 on Saturday evening the Captain radioed that the ship’s steering gear was gone and requested immediate assistance.

Conditions deteriorated rapidly from here and at 2330 hours Captain Rao gave the order to abandon ship. Whilst taking to the lifeboats two RAF Sea King rescue helicopters arrived and successfully rescued the Captain and his crew. The vessel was fully lit and at the request of the helicopter crews the engines had been left running to facilitate the rescue. So her speed at this time was approximately one knot. Adrift and out of control, an Irish patrol vessel the L.E. Aoife followed the Kowloon Bridge from early Sunday morning 23rd November. At 2300 hours on Sunday still adrift she came within 60 yards of Kedge Island which is situated just outside Baltimores harbour. Miraculously she missed and continued her way south down the coast, until at 0300 on Monday the 24th November 1986 the Kowloon Bridge carrying 160,000 tonnes of iron ore, thousands of gallons of oil and unknown quantities of paint ran aground on the Stags, a knife-edged formation of rock off Toe head. The vessel immediately started leaking a mixture of light and heavy fuel oil, after breaking her hull between hatches two and three.

By late afternoon observers stated that over 100,000 gallons of fuel oil had leaked out, which over a period of months was to cause a major catastrophe to the wildlife and environment around this area of Southern Ireland. Over the next few days the weather moderated which allowed a huge ocean going tug the Smit Rotterdam to board the Kowloon Bridge and attach lines to her. Another tug the Typhoon arrived and a joint effort was made to shift the huge vessel off the rocks. This attempt failed and to make matters worse the weather increased again to gale force and all attempts were abandoned. On Wednesday the 3rd December, the Kowloon Bridge sank causing another major release of oil that continued for days. By the evening of the 3rd all that was visible of the wreck was the funnel and part of the bridge.

Over the coming months the wreck finally succumbed to the winter gales the Atlantic threw at it with unceasing fury. She continued to be a source of speculation for the world’s media for over six months, but eventually this all died down. The mystery and controversy was to rage on for some years to come, but from all this initial havoc and devastation, 16 years on, we as divers are left with an artificial reef of immense power and beauty for all of us to enjoy and marvel at.

Diving The Kowloon Bridge
Where to start that is the question. She now lies in position 51.27.50N 09.13.45W, her bow. Is approximately 800 yards south of the stags rocks and runs in a straight line for 500 yards at which point her hull is broken and she then runs at a 45 degree angle to port until you reach the stern. Depth ranges from 7 metres on the bow to 29metres on the stern with the bottom at 36metres. In recent years she has substantially broken up with the bridge completely flattened. This is a wreck of such immense proportions that to say you could dive it for a week and still have plenty more to see is an understatement. So for the sake of sanity I will describe the most popular dive which is on the bow, where she is buoyed.

Descending the line just before dusk, leaving the dappled sunlight playing on the surface behind us, the bow section is immediately seen, starting at 7 metres she is soon reached. Visibility was in the region of 20 metres plus. At first all that can be seen is a massive healthy kelp bed sloping slightly off to starboard. Emerging from the waving fronds can be seen huge bollards, cable drums and a thousand other items that would have helped keep this ship running. We quickly move over to the port side leaving this shallower part of the dive to be investigated on our safety stop when we return. Finning over the side is like a jump into a massive chasm with the sheer wall of the ship adorned with dead mans fingers and jewel anemones as far as the eye can see. Working our way slightly aft it is not long before the anchor, still set in its home, comes into view. Three times the size of a man it is like everything else on this dive completely out of proportion. Continuing down it is not long before we hit the bottom at 36 metres. As far as the eye can see it is covered with the ships last cargo, iron ore pellets. There also seems to be resident shoals of Pollock and a myriad of other life conger eels watch us from the nooks and crannies with their black eyes and lobsters wave their antenna in our direction.

We now move quickly towards the bow and it is not long before we are met by the sight of the huge bulbous box, dug well into the sea bottom. Moving on around to the Starboard side and ascending we first come into contact with the deck ports which allowed running water to exit the upper deck. These are always worth a closer look, again, they hide congers, resting Pollock and the odd Lobster. From this point it is worth moving aft as you soon come across the first of her holds.

Here there is a jumble of ripped deck plates and care should be taken not to snag any equipment on the sharp edges. Looking down again the cargo of iron ore is easily visible at approximately 24 metres. Turning back towards the bow we now ascend the back wall of the upper bow, heading back towards the waning sunlight the kelp forest soon engulfs us at about 14 metres. From here it is a gentle slope back towards the bow line with much to see. Wrasse of many varieties are evident peering at us from every corner, pieces of equipment although by now well rusted are easily identifiable (the bow on its own can give divers many hours of enjoyment alone). It is not long until we arrive at the bow rope and ascend to the surface, I always reflect over the years and many occasions I have dived this part of the Kowloon Bridge and each time it turns up something new and unexpected.

Fact File
Best dived with Baltimore Diving and Watersports, owned and run by John Kearney. John has been diving the Kowloon Bridge continuously since she sank and is intimate with every part of her. Contact direct on 00 353 028 20300 or www.baltimorediving.com.
Accommodation. There are many forms here from a 4 star hotel to excellent BB’s. Baltimore Diving has a hostelry or individual ensuite bedrooms with kitchen facilities in a house which is ideal for large groups.
How to get there. By Air from Stanstead or Birmingham airports is a one hour ten minute flight to Cork Airport, then a 70-mile road journey by taxi or hire car to Baltimore (Baltimore Diving can arrange). Alternatively a ferry from the many ports in the U.K. to Cork and then drive south, the roads are in good condition and the route is very scenic.
Money – Euro
Water temp During the Season April until October 12-16 degrees centigrade dry suit or 7mm recommended, visibility can range from 5 to 20metres.

 

ARTICLE DYK SCANDINAVIA
THE U260 BY TONY WHITE
I have been visiting Baltimore in West Cork situated on the southern most tip of Southern Ireland on and off for the past five years. This sheltered small fishing village is the gateway to some of the most spectacular wreck diving that Europe has to offer. From Kinsale to the fastnet rock lighthouse, over the centuries the unforgiving savagery of the Atlantic Ocean has sent many a fine vessel to its untimely end in these waters.

Shrouded in the secrecy that encompassed the dark days of the end of the Second World War, one of the outstanding wrecks in these waters must be the German U-Boat the U260

Baltimore West Cork
Baltimore town nestles on the coast 8 miles south of the main market town of Skibbereen. On the point of a fine large natural harbour, protected to the north by the Spanish and Ringarogy islands. It is shielded from the Atlantic on its western boundary by Sherkin Island. Reminiscent of some of the more beautiful hamlets that abound on the Cornish coastline, she sits as a multicoloured jewel in the crown of some of the most beautiful countryside in Southern Ireland. With strong links to the sea, dating back centuries, Baltimore in the early 1800’s was considered to be poor beyond redemption. Smuggling and Piracy being its staple diet. The famous potato famine of 1846 saw the further decline of the town, by 1870 to one of abject poverty. The turning point came in 1880 with an unexpected turn of luck, in the form of the change in the migrating patterns of the mackerel shoals, which were reported to be concentrating closer to Baltimore. This coupled with the facilities of the large natural harbour meant that boats both foreign and Irish increasingly would use Baltimore as a landing place for spring mackerel.

Over the years this trade lead to the total rejuvenation of this once forgotten town. The lasting effects was a development of the infrastructure on the physical environment of Baltimore and the restoration of its maritime identity.This legacy can be seen today in this thriving community. Ties to fishing are still strong with trawlers coming and going on a daily basis, the slipway in the small harbour always has a trawler up on the stocks for maintenance, but increasingly tourism is playing its part. The natural beauty of the countryside, spectacular diving, history and the hospitality of the local people, are all excellent reasons why increasing numbers of tourists are flocking to this area. So it is with me, I return to Baltimore Diving with John Kearney the owner and his team who has an undying passion coupled with expert knowledge of the wrecks along this coastline. On a regular basis not only to dive but also to absorb the beauty of its surroundings.

The U260
The V11C U boat was the workhorse of the German U-boat force in world war two. It was a slightly modified version of the successful V11B. They had basically the same engine layout and power, but were slightly larger and heavier. Consequently they were not quite as fast as the V11B. 568 were commissioned from 1940-1945 with 5 torpedo tubes, 4 at the bow and one at the stern, complemented with an 88/45 deck gun they were an effective fighting machine.

The U260 was built at Vegesack, laid down on the 7th May 1941 she was commissioned and entered service on the 14th March 1942. With a total displacement of 1070 tons, her dimensions were: - length 67.1 metres, beam 6.2 metres, height 9.6 metres, with a draught of 4.7 metres. She carried 14 torpedo’s 26 mines and 220 rounds of ammunition for the deck gun. With a maximum dive depth of 220 metres her range was 8,500 miles surfaced and 80 submerged with a top speed of 17.7 knots surfaced and 7.6 knots submerged,. At the time of her sinking she had a complement of 48 officers/enlisted men.

A large part of her career is surrounded in secrecy. What is known is that from being commissioned in 1942 she served on 9 patrols, during this time she notched up only one kill, this being against convoy ONS-154 between 26th and 30th December 1942 totalling 4,893 tons. From here on in she disappears from all records, and it is thought that she may have been assigned intelligence duties (submarines were regularly used against allied ports to gain intelligence on convoy arrival/departure dates, and as a way of slipping agents ashore for covert duties). This may explain why she was so close inshore on the night of her sinking in March 1945.

The Loss Of U260
The official report is that the U260 hit a mine off the fastnet rock, whilst running at a depth of 80 metres, sustaining major damage to the bow section, on the evening of march 12th 1945. When attempting to run the blockade and bring the boat home to Germany. Captain Klaus Becker and his crew managed to bring the vessel to the surface and limp a further 15 miles north, before it became obvious that they were fighting a losing battle. High Command in Germany was informed and the decision was taken to destroy all documents and to scuttle the submarine. This took place at 2230 hours in position 51.15N 09.05W on 12th march 1945. It was a calm, fine night with a light southerly breeze when Captain Becker and his crew abandoned their boat, in small eight man rubber dinghies. It is here where the chain of events becomes cloudy.

For some reason the group split into two distinct groups, which later lead the authorities to believe that two submarines not one had been sunk. Eleven men eventually made landfall on galley head. After contacting the lighthouse keeper, the courtmacsherry lifeboats Sarah Ward and William David Crosweller were launched at 0510 hours, and picked up a further 36 men five miles west of galley head. Prior to scuttling the vessel Captain Becker had reported to German High Command that he had destroyed all confidential documents. But a metal sealed container was later found by a Mr Scully of Union Hall containing confidential code books, maps, charts, the Captain’s personal logbook and more importantly three wheels, marked Erasmus, Geheime Komando Fache 2565, which may have been the setting discs for the enigma code machine. These artefacts are now in the military archives in Dublin. Having gone through the official report, the one fact that stands out is that all the bow torpedo tubes were loaded at the time of the explosion, which must have been huge, but did not cause any secondary explosions of the torpedo’s, which would have completely destroyed the U260. A more plausible explanation of the sinking is that a pinnacle of rock rising to within 15 metres of the surface lies just 200 metres SSE of her final resting place, Between which there is a substantial debris field. The pinnacle incidentally was unknown to the hydrographers of the day. That actual outcome is best left to individual’s imagination. The crew were interned and eventually transferred to the "Curragh" where they remained from April until October 1945, when they were eventually repatriated to their homeland.

The wreck was then lost and forgotten for many years, as the official report gave her final resting place as 15 miles further south, until a local fisherman snagged his nets and asked Nic Gotto a local diver to investigate.The rest is history and an important piece of world war two machinery has been brought to the attention of the diving world for them to briefly visit and explore and look on with a certain sense of awe.

Diving The U260
She lies in open water with a depth of 37 metres to the conning tower and 44 metres to the seabed, therefore the expert knowledge in finding her by John Kearney was invaluable and because of the depth extra care should be taken when planning this dive. When I originally dived her over five years ago, she had a list to port of approximately 45 degrees. This has now increased to 60 degrees. She lies on a sandy bottom, and because of the depth she is in excellent condition. It is possible even with the limited bottom time to circumnavigate this stunning example of wartime history in one dive although it takes more than this to truly say you have explored her. From the bow which is broken away at a steep angle exposing the torpedo tubes some of the loaded torpedo’s still visible, we can proceed aft towards the conning tower.

From here the pressure hull is intact, watertight lockers line the deck which would have contained the rubber dinghies the crew used to escape after the sinking. The decking is covered in a mixture of brown growth and dead mans fingers; we soon approach the centre point of the boat, the conning tower. The main hatch is still open. A statement to the quick evacuation some 56 years ago and no attempt should be made to enter the boat. Not only is she silted up but rumours of big congers inhabiting the interior abound. The main attack periscope is visible though retracted and the D.F aerial. loop and skyscope are very prominent now adorned with jewel anemones and dead mans fingers except for the skyscope lens, which has been kept clean by the touch of so many divers over the years. The cladding that would have surrounded the tower has long since fallen away just leaving a lump of metal that houses the inner workings.

Proceeding aft just behind the tower you will come across the air vents for the accommodation and engine room and the snorkel, which allowed the vessel to run on her diesel engines whilst submerged and was not actually fitted until August 1944. Further down is the deck gun pedestal. The gun itself would have become detached on her sinking (see note at end of article). The rear deck is flat and unbroken tapering off to the stern adorned by the two propellers still attached and again covered in dead man’s fingers. It is worth continuing over the end of the stern and turning around here. Missed by most divers, tucked away behind a deck plate is the stern torpedo tube that would have moved aside when this tube was ready to use. All to soon the short bottom time means it is time to return to our real world. Ascending the shot line is always a time of reflection as the U260 disappears into the gloom. Having served myself in the Royal Navy, I am always left with a sense of nostalgia and a sense of empathy for the men who served on this vessel and the hardships they must have endured. On my last visit to her this year I experienced an awesome 20 metre visibility which I am told is not that uncommon. She is best dived about half an hour after high or low water.

Note on deck gun
During my last visit to Baltimore Diving in August 2002 the whereabouts of the deck gun, which rumour has it was lifted from its last resting place besides the U260 some seven years ago became known to John and myself. We visited a local firm and there buried under concrete dust and rubbish came to light the barrel and chamber of this misplaced item of history. It is now the intention of John to ensure its renovation and eventual display at the heritage centre in Cape Clear Island. Although I do not condone the action of the people who initially lifted this artefact, it was a joy to see it lifted from the rubbish with the knowledge that in the near future it will end up displayed in a place of dignity where it belongs.

Fact File
How to get there. By Air from Stanstead or Birmingham airport a one hour ten minute flight to Cork airport then a 70-mile road journey by taxi or hire car to Baltimore (Baltimore diving can arrange). Alternatively ferry from the many ports in the U.K. to Cork and then drive south.
Accommodation Baltimore diving has hostelry or individual bedrooms ensuite in a purpose built house. Various BB’s around the town if required
Money – Euro .
Water temp during the season April until October 12 – 16 degrees centigrade drysuit or 7mm recommended.

ARTICLE SCUBA DIVER AUSTRALASIA
THE MARINE BIO-DIVERSITY OF KANGAROO ISLAND

As Mathew Flinders set foot on Kangaroo Island South Australia in 1802, little did he know the richness of life that lay beneath the surface of this rugged Southern Ocean coastline. Today we have the technology to explore the labyrinth of marine diversity that exists off the shores of this beautiful Island.

Kangaroo Island the second largest Southern Australian island after Tasmania. Situated some 70 miles south west of Adelaide, at the entrance to the gulf St Vincent, it is 96 miles from east to west and some 34 miles at its widest point. With a population of just 4,500 inhabitants, it is an island split between traditional farming, tourism and national parks.

These 18 national conservation areas maintain a rich diversity of flora and fauna. Kangaroo Island’s own endemic kangaroo is only one of many species to flourish here. Combine this with pure white sandy beaches and rugged inlets and coves, which are home to colonies of endangered Australian Sea lions, Fairy Penguins and Australian Pelicans, and you have the perfect platform from which to launch yourself into a kaleidoscope of colour and marine life under these temperate waters. Here you will experience bio diversity unsurpassed anywhere else along this Southern Australian coastline.

As an underwater photographer, I have been returning to these shores on a yearly basis for a number of years, initially to photograph the wonder that is the Leafy seadragon. But as time has passed and the ways in which anyone can do added justice to this beautiful creature have diminished, I have delved deeper into the myriad of marine animals that exist under these sometimes turbulent waters where water temperatures very rarely exceed 21C and in winter drop as low as 12C.

Marine Biologists who regularly dive here are continually discovering new undescribed creatures. Latest estimates have recorded 270 described species of fish, 58 described nudibranch, but always with a number of described species awaiting classification and a further number of known species undescribed. All this on a small part of the north Coast of Kangaroo Island.
There is only one major dive operator resident on the island. Jim and Josie Thistleton of Kangaroo Island Diving Safaris www.Kidivingsafaris.com.

This ensures that the diving conditions here are in a pristine state and the marine stock has not moved on, as is the case in more popular dive destinations around the world. Jim is world renowned for his work on Leafy Seadragons over the last twelve years and runs day and liveaboard dive trips around the island. So let’s look at some of the dive sites and what they have to offer which are all situated in a small section of the north coast between Western River Cove and Cape Torrens.

Pissy Boy Bay
Heading west from Western River Cove along the coast for approximately three miles brings us to this site. This is a small cove under the 500ft cliffs and derives it somewhat odd name from a natural vent which during heavy swells pushes water out with great force. It also is the source of three very different dive sites, the Amphitheatre, the Cut, and the Arch. All are situated in an area stretching no more than 500 metres in a protected area. Visibility is usually in the range of 15m to 25m, the only potential hazards are during periods of heavy swells when caution should be taken when passing through the many gullies.

Photo opportunities are many and varied, macro can include Leafy and Weedy Seadragons, Nudibranches, and Sea Spiders. Whilst Wide Angle takes in the resident New Zealand Fur Seals visiting Australian Sealions, Bottlenose Dolphins and Western Stingrays.
My rating for this site out of a possible 10 is 9, mainly due to the varied diving conditions and richness of marine life in such a small area.

The Amphitheatre, drops through a gully to 17 metres ending in a white circular sandy bottom the shape of which suggests its name. Here on many occasions I have found a 2 metre wingspan Western Stingray (Trygonoptera mucosa) resting. The walls either side are literally covered in a plethora of multi coloured Sargassum interspersed with small perfectly formed gorgonian fans. Delving into this can be seen Verco’s Tambja Nudibranch grazing on the vervant green Bugula Dentate Bush, the diet peculiar to this form of nudibranch. Here also can be seen the beautiful Short Tailed Nudibranch (Cetatosoma brevicaudatum) and the Electric Blue (Flabellina rubrolineata).

In amongst the delicate lace corals can be seen magnificent Hydroids (Ralphania magnifica), swaying in the ever present surge hunting for the plankton that is ever present here. Tiny Black Knee Sea Spiders (Stylopauene cheilorhynchus), can be seen with a sharp eye on the many sponges that are dotted around these walls. Exiting the amphitheatre we come out on a flat seabed covered in swaying Sargasum weed. Watch out for swarms of mysid shrimps, the favourite food of the Leafy and Weedy Seadragons and the chances are that you will see one or both of these magnificent creatures. Top this off with many Eastern Blue Groupers (achoerodus viridis), schools of Old Wives and every species of Leatherjacket imaginable and you have a site so diverse it would keep your average underwater photographer snapping away for weeks on end.

The Cut, a further 150 metres south from the amphitheatre, is precisely cut into the jagged rocks, aptly describing the name of this dive site. To a depth of approximately 10 metres, here lives a small colony of New Zealand Fur Seals (Arctocephalus fosteri). Although somewhat the shyest of the seal family, they still cavort like little children around the small numbers of divers that visit this spot. Occasionally if you are lucky you can also spot the more friendly and interactive Australian Sea Lions (Neophoca cinerea), whose numbers have been progressively dropping. It is estimated that there are less than 6,000 still left in the wild.
When divers tire of the action nearer the surface, the Cut houses walls covered in multi coloured sponges and gorgonians. In small holes can be seen the breath taking colours of the Harlequin fish (Othos dentex). Growing to lengths of 2 feet, he is a truly awesome sight, even if his teeth are a little large.

The flat bottom of Pissy Boy Bay, keeps the secret of two of the wonders of the Southern hemisphere. Here mysid Shrimps proliferate, supporting a small colony of Leafy Seadragons. These creatures fully protected in Southern Australia area and chosen as the State’s marine emblem never cease to take my breath away, even after all these years. A bonus to be seen in November and January each year is the male of the species with his tail adorned with eggs in special suction cups, which develop just prior to the exchange between female and male. Consequently, if you are really lucky in December and February, once the eggs have hatched small juveniles can be spotted. A three week old leafy will be no more than two inches long and carries the distinctive markings on his snout, which unique to him, could identify him in years to come. Jim informed me recently that a juvenile I had photographed three years ago this year (2003) had returned to have his first batch of eggs.

A further site here, The Arch, so called because of the natural rock arch that over hangs this site leading to a small moon pool near to the cliff face, provides the ideal back drop for photographing the resident New Zealand Fur Seal colony. Given the added dimension of natural light provided by the Australian summer, this bay is probably one of the most diverse temperate water sites that I have ever visited around the world.

Portland Maru
Heading west from Western River Cove along the coast for approximately 10 miles brings you to the imposing Cliffs of Cape Torrens. The remains of the Portland Maru are slightly west of the cliffs and 500 metres from the shore. Visibility can range from 10 metres to 30 metres, Hazards to be aware of are because of its exposed position heavy swells that can frequently arise without warning, and the many exposed and rusty objects that lie around this site and can easily snag gear.

Photo opportunities include both macro and wide angle searching around this site saw sightings of Blue Ringed Octopus and many varied forms of Nudibranches. For me this site is ideal for wide angle especially around the boiler area with its rich diversity of large fish life framed by the boilers and exposed beams.

My rating for this site out of ten is eight again the draw for me was the wide angle opportunities
a Japanese, 5865 ton, freighter, the Portland Maru ran aground in March 1935, carrying some 5,000 tons of wheat, under the shadow of the highest cliffs on Kangaroo Island, the 970 feet of Cape Torrens. Broken up over the ensuing 68 years, all that remains of this wreck are a number of straight lines lying on the seabed. These steel beams are now completely covered in Sargassum verrculosum interspersed with the green fern fronds of Caulerpa euistoniae, which is typical of this area. Our interest lies around the 12 metre mark where the bulk of the boilers and push rods are still very much visible against the blue water background. Here is where a large concentration of fish life carries on its daily routine amongst the coral and sponge encrusted hulk that has become their home. Amongst the push rods large schools of Red Snapper (Centroberyx gerrard), Old Wives (Enoplosus armatus) and Long-Snouted Boarfish, seem to float in the sun kissed ocean in a hierarchical system. When ever I have visited the Boarfish are always at the bottom, Red Snapper in the middle and the Old Wives at the top. It would be interesting to know in what order the system works. In the many holes that are scattered around can be found Blue Devil fish (Paraplesiops meleacris) who spend time looking under the rubble that is scattered around and there is a huge assortment of decorator crabs and lobsters. The deadly blue ringed octopus (Hapalochlaena maculosa) flashes his vivid blue rings when uncovered to express his irritation.

Castle Rock
Heading west from Western River Cove for approximately 7 miles brings us to , Castle Rock the most magical of them all for me. Visibility is usually in the range of 10 metres to 20 metres. Hazards again are limited to the problems of buffeting by the sometimes heavy swells and people should be cautious around gullies close to the shore.

Photo opportunities are endless for macro and wide angle the small recess provides many coloured variations of Gorgonian Fans, Leafy and Weedy Seadragons are frequently seen here it is the one site that I always go in with at least two housed camera’s as it is always throwing up the unusual (it was as this site that I caught the birth of a Leafy Seadragon in 2002).
My favourite site and for this I must give it a rating of ten out of ten. Secreted away in seven metres of water within the rock face is a small recess. The walls and ceiling are covered in small gorgonian fans, literally 60 or 70 of them ranging from bright yellow to deep velvet in colour. Some of the biggest crayfish I have ever seen live in the larger holes, whilst you are continually being buzzed by mosaic Leather Jackets (Eubalichthys mosaicus) and the beautiful but delicately ornate Cowfish (Aracana ornate) is constantly vying for the divers attention.

Encounters that frequently occur are Bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncates) and Common dolphins (Delphinus delphis) whilst mauradering Australian Sea lions move from site to site. During the winter months the migration route of the Southern Right Whale (Eubalaena australis) takes them past Kangaroo Island.

On going field surveys of this area are constantly turning up new interesting species. Reports of new discoveries always carry the comment "gross underestimate" which in itself is indicitive of the bio-diversity of marine creatures that exist in this small area. For me as a dive destination it still and will probably remain one of my favourite places I have been privileged to visit around the world.

Leafy Sea Dragon
The Leafy Sea Dragon is an endangered species - in 1991 the WA Fisheries in Western Australia declared it a totally protected species and it became the unofficial conservation symbol of Southern Australian Waters.

Anyone who has marvelled at this delicate and colourful creature cannot fail to see the strong connection between the Leafy Sea Dragon and those mythical fairy-tale dragons we read about as children.

Sea Dragons actually belong to the same family as Sea Horses (Sygnathidae), but differ in appearance by possessing leaf-like appendages on their heads and bodies, and have a tail that cannot be used as an anchor.

At first glance these amazing creatures resemble swaying seaweed, which can make them difficult to find in their natural habitats, usually inshore areas of sea-grass. Under increasing threat from pollution and excessive fertiliser run-off, this is not the only danger faced by the Sea Dragon.

Although not having any known marine predators, it has become the target of unscrupulous collectors. It is poorly equipped to flee from those wishing to capture it. The outer skin of the Sea Dragon is made up of solid plates, severely limiting its mobility, and the only way that the creature can propel itself is by rapidly oscillating its ventral and dorsal fins.
However, it blends easily with its environment and is agile enough to hunt down tiny mysid shrimps or sea-lice, its main diet.

Perhaps the most extraordinary thing about the Leafy Sea Dragon is that it is the male species that gets pregnant and gives birth. During mating the female lays eggs onto a special area on the underside of the male's tail where they are attached and fertilised.

This brood patch, consisting of cups of blood-rich tissue, each holding one egg, is specially developed by the male for use during the August-March breeding season. During each season male Leafy Sea Dragons will hatch two batches of eggs and, after a period of four to six weeks from conception, the male gives birth to miniature juvenile Sea Dragons. These immediately become independent and receive no further help from their parent.

For two to three days after birth the baby Sea Dragons are sustained by their yoke sac. After this they hunt small zooplankton, until large enough to hunt juvenile mysids. A baby Sea Dragon will eventually reach the size of approximately 35 centimetres.

The Leafy Sea Dragon is one of two species of Sea Dragon to be found in Southern Australian waters. The common, or weedy sea-dragon (Phyllopteryx taeniolatus) is less rare and can be encountered more frequently in the same areas.

Tony White, is a full time underwater photographer based in the UK. He contributes to major Nature and Dive magazines around the world most notably the BBC Wildlife Magazine and Natures Best in the USA. He regularly leads groups of divers to some of the more unusual dive destinations around the world.

Sardine Run l Squid Run South Africa l Indonesia l Sodwana South Africa l Tiger Sharks l Ponta Del Oura

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